Dec 15, 2013

Offerdal - mixed up place

Offerdal - mixed up place


After a couple of days in Abisko, actually a loong weekend, with some decent ice climbing in this magic place up in the very north of Sweden.
Abisko

This place which is one of the driest areas in Sweden, neighbor with Björkliden and Riskgränsen. Which is one of the places that gets most precipitation during the year. Climbing here is so much than just swinging the ice axes.
The cold arctic climate, the short days and the northern lights, it's just amazing!
Early afternoon in Abisko, short intensive days in december

But, the weekend came to an end and the trip continued south to Östersund. A trip that came to a stop in Offerdal, Rise. About 50km west of Östersund on the we towards Åre. Which is one of the bigger ski resorts in Suede.
One of many interesting mixed routes in Offerdal

This area has two sectors with about 2km in distance between, so its different parking places. A car is required, just to get here. The routes here involves every kind of climbing on ice, rock and mixed. With rope lengths up to 50m.
The main ice is very obvious from the road and the approach is quick and straight forward. Just make sure that you park your car at the right place, the local farmer normally cleans a quite big area for parking away from his garage


Rise, Offerdal

I would say that this is one of the best areas in Suede taking in mind the big number of routes which is concentrated so close to each other, with it's good quality and various grades, from WI 3 to M8. Just take care of some of the mixed routes since they sometimes are very demanding and falling is sometimes not an option. Most of them also need extra pro and only a few a fully bolted. But on the other hand so can many of them be top roped first, before the sharp lead!
Magic light over Bydalsfjällen

My favorite climbs are the ice formations out on the left side of the crag, thin ice witch all of them has some mixed starts, and often pure rock
An other great route is Svart profetsia - M8 and "Pelarkrisen" and the hard starting "Campai" M7And, when it is formed "Carpe Diam" M6+, is just a great climb at almost a full 50m pitch, long and demanding on own pro!




To get hereFrom Östersund is about 45 km to the village Tulleråsen located northwest of Krokom. In Tulleråsen turn left towards Änge. After a mile, turn up right at a sign for "Rise". After the sharp right curve on the 
hill, a barn on the right side

You need
2x50m rope
4-6 ice scruws, a full rack of nuts and camalots as well as some small Aliens and pitons
8-10 QD´s

For full topo visit 
http://mountainpassion.blogspot.fr/p/topos.html



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